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The idyllic, medieval town of Cefalù (pronounced ‘Shef-a-loo’) sits on the North coast of Sicily, boasting beautiful waters, historical sites and fantastic food. Under an hour from the capital Palermo by train, this town should be on every Sicilian itinerary.
I would go so far as to say Cefalù is one of my favourite places in the world, and I have been each time I have been to Sicily in the past four years. It’s beautiful; hand painted ceramic flower pots teeming with petunias and hydrangeas line cobbled streets that lead to the main square, where the duomo sits in the sunshine.
And that’s before you’ve even touched the beaches: classically Sicilian with people jumping off of the molo (pier) into the azure waters, underneath the watch of the Cefalù rock. It’s an absolute must visit whilst in Sicily.
Without further ado, read on for your Cefalù Travel Guide!
Cefalù Travel Guide Contents
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WHERE TO EAT IN CEFALÙ
RESTAURANTS
Tinchite Taverna & Putia
Via XXV Novembre, 37, 90015
Tinchite has been a repeat offender on every trip of mine to Cefalù – in the very best of ways. This is mostly down to their incredible pasta a Taianu, a traditional dish that hails from Cefalù itself. Think slow cooked meat and aubergine in a tomato sauce, baked in a dish with rigatoni. My God it’s good. And the portion is HUGE. Which all makes sense when you learn ‘tinchite’ means ‘abundance’ in Italian.
Speaking of portion sizes, I spent my last birthday having lunch at Tinchite and decided to try their set menu, which is an absolute steal at €30 per person. I assumed that you would pick between each course option, but no – you got a selection of everything on the menu. Over FOUR courses. If the appetizer made a decent dent, then the large plate of pasta nearly saw me off. And that’s all before I got to the massive pork shoulder course! This is a tasting menu for an incredible price with proper portion sizes – be warned if you go forth – it really is a huge amount of food.
The food is excellent, there is indoor and outdoor seating and the queue for those who haven’t booked on a summer evening speaks for itself.
Bastione & Costanza
Piazza Francesco Crispi, 13, 90015
Perfectly situated for the sunset over the ocean if you are lucky to get a table outside on the back terrace, Bastione & Costanza is a fantastic place with amazing views and a buzzy atmosphere. If you have a special occasion to celebrate whilst in Cefalù, Bastione & Costanza is the place to do it. The prices are a bit higher, but the quality is excellent and the setting is wonderful.
Al Faro
Via porta Giudecca, 62 a, 90015
Walk a little out of the old town in the opposite direction of the station, and up a gentle hill you will find some restaurants set on terraces that look down onto the rocks and sea below, perfectly situated for a sunset dinner. Al Faro is one of them, where I enjoyed an excellent tuna tartare followed by perfectly cooked pistachio and prawn pasta. The accompaniment of the glow of golden hour made this meal one to remember.
Da Sasa
Via Giudecca, 58, 90015
Just by Al Faro sits Da Sasa, with the same beautiful views its neighbour boasts. Da Sasa is predominantly a pizzeria, so if that’s what you’re after with a view to kill on the side: make a reservation here.
Ostaria del Duomo dal 1979
Via Seminario, 5, 90015
You can probably tell from the name, but Ostaria del Duomo sits in the square underneath the gaze the duomo. It has a covered terrace, serving as a good place for lunch in the shade, and enjoys the buzz of the piazza at night time when the duomo is lit up. I had a truly excellent pistachio pasta dish here!
Locanda del Marinaio
Via Porpora, 5, 90015
Excellent seafood restaurant recognized by the Michelin Guide and, moreover, by my local Air BnB host. Locanda del Marinaio has outside seating out the front of the restaurant which captures the buzzy atmosphere of the old town in the evening, or you can request a table on the terrace by the sea.
Antica Focacceria Sapori Siciliani
Via Gioeni, 87, 90015
Small place serving traditional street food to take away, including the best arancini you’ll get in Cefalù. They also serve panelle and fantastic pizza by the slice. Do yourself a favour and get a selection to eat for lunch on the beach.
GELATO
Squagghio
C.O, Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro, 69, 90015
I’ve tried a lot of it, and Squagghio is official my favourite gelato in Cefalù, so if you’re only going to get one, get it from here. Also, this is off menu – but hopefully one day won’t be – the gentleman working there added a topping of pistachio crème to my pistachio gelato when I banged on about how much I love it. Ethereal.
Whilst Squagghio is my favourite gelato in Cefalù, if you’re there for longer and want to do a self guided tasting(!), I can also recommend the following:
Santa Lucia
Via Porpora, 1, 90015
Just up the street from Squagghio, so you have an easy detour and a solid alternative if the former is shut.
Mon Chou Chou
Via Giglio, 29, 90015 Cefalù
Inconspicuous spot near to the station – good option for a last minute gelato before heading back to Palermo! Also serves pastries and cakes.
L’Angolo delle Dolcezze
Via Pietro Novelli, 2, 90015
Another good spot not too far from the station, the pistachio gelato has chopped and whole pistachios in it – sublime. My best mate often reminisces about the peanut butter gelato she had from L’Angolo delle Dolcezze.
BARS IN CEFALÙ
Enoteca Le Petit Tonneau
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 49, 90015
This iconic wine bar is best when you can secure one of the 3 small tables out on the balcony that looks directly onto the beach below and out to sea. Grabbing a booking here at sunset requires some planning and a booking in advance without question, but it’s well worth it. Beware it may be extremely hot at sunset in August though!
Enoteca Rossorubino
Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro, 16, 90015
Rossorubino is a lovely little wine bar that very conveniently gets the late afternoon sun. Perfect for a glass of Sicilian wine, but they also do a good spritz. Their small plates are really great too; the buratta bruschetta is the perfect accompaniment for an early evening sundowner.
Chiosco Marina Bay
On the beach
Tiny bar on the beach serving beers, spritz and snacks to take away, or you can perch at one of the few stools outside if you get lucky. The bar is up the few steps you see at the beach by the molo; perfectly situated to keep your thirst quenched as you sunbathe all day.
Cathedral Coffee
Piazza del Duomo, 2, 90015
Cathedral Coffee is quite touristy, but for good reason; situated in the square looking up at the duomo, this is a fantastic spot for a coffee and pastry to start the day (their pistachio crème filled croissants are fantastic), and a decent spot for aperitivo too, when you can enjoy the golden glow of the duomo as the sun beats down onto it in the last hours of the afternoon.
Neo Mediterraneo Vibes
Via Vanni, 100, 90015
Fancy cocktail bar hidden away in the beautiful cobbled old town streets of Cefalù, also serving small plates.
Capriccio Siciliano Wine Bar & Taverna
Via Umberto I°, 22, 90015
Good wine bar with a friendly owner and with plenty of outdoor seating, serving charcuterie and cheese boards. If you’re after something more substantial, there are some Italian classics on the menu including a lasagna made from the owner’s grandmother’s family recipe.
Antica Porta Terra
Piazza Garibaldi, 6, 90015
Antica Porta Terra sits in the sunshine in the first square you get to as you enter Cefalù old town from the station. Great spot for aperitivo and watching the world go by, perched on seats that face the afternoon sun at tables painted in the traditional way Sicilian ceramics are.
Amorelli
Discesa Paramuro, 2, 90015
Amorelli is somewhere you can sit on plump cushions on the steps that lead down to the bar itself, taking advantage of the afternoon sunshine as you make your way through a couple of cocktails.
Tentazioni Mediterranee
Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro, 23, 90015
The perfect spot for aperitivo, Tentazioni Mediterranee serves amazing charcuterie boards and small plates of olives, cold meats, cheese cuts alongside fantastic wine and, of course, spritz.
Zagaro Juice Bar
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 84, 90015
Cute juice bar in the old town serving smoothies, freshly squeezed juices, coffee and cocktails.
THINGS TO DO IN CEFALÙ
Cefalù is a seaside town, so spending time on the lovely beaches and in the turquoise sea is obviously a must, but the town also dates back to the Romans, so there are some great historical sites to enjoy, too.
Molo
To see the iconic view of the crystal blue sea in front of the medieval gate into Cefalù old town with the rock watching over it, head to the end of the molo (or pier/wharf). In the high summer this stretch is full of people sunbathing and jumping off into the sea to cool down.
Beach
Cefalù has a couple of beaches to choose from – there is a really long and wide sandy stretch near the bulk of the hotels before you get to the old town, with sunbeds and parasols you can hire. My favourite is the one by the molo. It’s less touristy, has a definite local vibe and there’s a great little bar up the steps that you can buy drinks from to enjoy on the beach.
Porta Giudecca
Cefalù used to be a walled city, and Porta Giudecca is the only remaining medieval gate. The gate opens onto the beach in front of the molo and is a very picturesque spot, with the gate framing the beach and sea beyond.
Catch the Sunset from Bastione di Capo
Cefalù gets some fantastic sunsets. One of my favourite spots to take the sunset in is from the Bastione di Capo Marchiafava. There’s plenty of space to sit on the walls overlooking the rocks into the ocean. A lovely, peaceful spot.
Climb Cefalù Rock
I’d bear in mind the temperature before embarking on this hike, but you can climb Cefalù Rock for sweeping views of the town below and sea beyond. It takes approx 1.5 hours to complete the return trip, and on the way up you can see the ancient Temple of Diana that dates back to the 4th-5th century BC, as well as other ancient ruins.
Cefalù Duomo
Cefalù’s duomo is Norman in design, dating back approximately 800 years and is one of Sicily’s protected UNESCO heritage sites. The two towers glow golden towards the end of the day as the setting sun lights them up, making the piazza that surrounds the duomo a picturesque spot for an aperitivo.
You can visit the main part of the duomo for free, but I recommend buying a ticket for the towers and rooftop to get a better perspective.
Lavatoio Medievale
There is a medieval washhouse that remains in Cefalù – NOT a lavatory, though I think that every time I see the word Lavatoio (Duolingo’s going well, thanks).
It’s where the residents of Cefalù used to wash their clothes in a communal space; it’s small but very interesting and well worth visiting. Free to enter.
Shopping
There are some beautiful boutiques in Cefalù; you could easily spend a few hours shopping for beautiful floaty dresses, Sicilian foodie favourites and gorgeous handprinted ceramics.
WHERE TO STAY IN CEFALÙ
AIR BNB
I’ve stayed in Air BnBs when in Cefalù; there are some excellent ones in the old town, but bear in mind they are usually up a few flights of stairs without access to a lift.
I highly recommend the one I stayed in for my first trip; beautifully designed and with a balcony that looked down into the medieval streets below. The hosts were amazing, and even left me some snacks, beer and a bottle of Sicilian wine to enjoy during my stay, as well as a parasol to borrow for the beach – key in the height of August! Book here.
HOTELS
Le Calette Bay is a bit further out of town, up the hill past Da Sasa and Al Faro. The location isn’t prime for exploring Cefalù, though you can walk into town in around 30 minutes or take a taxi, but the hotel itself is beautiful, so if you’re looking for a mix of vibes for your holiday – this is it. There is a big pool with plenty of sunbeds, and rooms are beautifully designed.
There is also a beach club at Le Calette, so even if you don’t stay there, it’s worth checking out the beach club for a long lazy lunch and sunset drinks one day. Book here.
A further 5 minute walk away from town than Le Calette is Hotel Kalura, another excellent hotel on the outskirts of Cefalù. Hotel Kalura has panoramic views of the ocean, a big swimming pool and an amazing terrace where you can enjoy a well crafted cocktail. There is bike hire available and the hotel has direct access to a private, pebbly beach into clear water. Book here.
Small hotel in the old town, a few minutes walk from both the sea and the cathedral. Rooms are a little dated decor wise, but all come with a balcony and if being in the middle of the Old Town appeals to you, you cannot go wrong location wise at La Plumeria. Book here.
Just a 10 minute walk along the seafront and main beach to the old town sits Victoria Palace Hotel. A great option with its own area on the beach and outdoor pool, there is also a rooftop terrace which enjoys views out onto the sea. Book here.
GETTING TO AND AROUND CEFALÙ
Getting to Cefalù is super easy on the train from Palermo Centrale, with regular trains taking between 45 minutes to an hour to the seaside town. At peak times or on a sunny weekend I would recommend booking a train online with Trainline to avoid disappointment – trains on Sundays are less frequent and you don’t want to miss out!
If you’re heading straight to Cefalù from Palermo airport, get the train into Palermo Centrale, then change onto the next train to Cefalù. Super easy, I promise!
When you arrive in Sicily it’s a quick 10 minute walk into the town, and everywhere is easy to get to by foot, but it is a bit hilly in certain areas – certainly nothing too strenuous though!
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Updated July 2025.
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