burnessie
Edinburgh Travel Guide with tips on things to see, the best places to eat and drink and more in the Scottish capital.
Steeped in culture, history and a fantastic food scene to boot, a trip to Edinburgh is one of my top city breaks! Whether you experience Edinburgh by itself or as the gateway to the rest of Scotland, this Edinburgh travel guide will give you plenty of things to do to fill your time in the Sottish capital.
Edinburgh Travel Guide Contents
*This blog includes affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of my links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting me!*
WHERE TO EAT IN EDINBURGH
The Wee Restaurant
61 Frederick St, Edinburgh EH2 1LH
The original Wee Restaurant is twenty minutes away from Edinburgh in North Queensferry, Fife, but luckily for city dwellers there is now a second outpost in the New Town. Food at The Wee Restaurant is superb; highlights include the calamari, breaded scallops and smoked haddock with leeks and poached egg in breadcrumbs. Highly recommend.
Mary’s Milk Bar
19 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2HS
Rain or shine, heatwave or snow, no trip to Edinburgh is complete without a visit to the place with the best ice cream in the city: Mary’s Milk Bar.
Mary was trained in the gelato capital of the world – Bologna, so you know this stuff is good. Serving a variety of flavours that are freshly made each morning, expect to wait in line during the summer and even in the winter you may find they’ve run out of certain ice creams before long. Best to get there early to avoid disappointment – what better excuse to have ice cream for breakfast?
Alby’s
8 Portland Pl, EH6 6LA
94 Buccleuch St, Newington, EH8 9NH
THE most epic sandwiches in Edinburgh can be found at Alby’s. A small but regularly changing menu of big hot sandwiches such as buttermilk fried chicken Caesar, pork souvlaki with whipped feta and excellent veggie options like broccoli and burrata with matchstick crisps.
Alby’s have two shops, one in Leith and one in Southside. You can order online to takeaway.
Lannan Bakery
29-35 Hamilton Pl, EH3 5BA
Some bakeries encapsulate pastries as a work of art, and one of these bakeries is Lannan.
Stunning to the eye and even better to taste: croissants with exemplary lamination, pretty tarts, intricate twists and perfect slices make up the menu at this unmissable Edinburgh spot.
Mootz General Store
62 Raeburn Pl, Edinburgh EH4 1HJ
More great sandwiches! Italian style focaccias are the order of the day at Mootz General Store (which is not a general store at all).
Think mortadella, stracciatella cheese, porchetta, prosciutto, mozzarella…these Italian creations are way better than what you’d find in an actual general store.
The Pantry
1 N W Circus Pl, Edinburgh EH3 6ST
If you’re in the market for a banging brunch to set you up for a day of sightseeing, get yourself to The Pantry.
Fry ups, fancy French toast, waffles, eggs benny and even pork belly with eggs can all be found on the menu. Make your brunch boozy by adding one of their Bloody Mary’s or mimosas to your order.
The Dome
14 George St, New Town, Edinburgh EH2 2PF
The Dome is one of the most beautiful restaurants to eat in, and at its most stunning at Christmas time. Once the site of the Commercial Bank of Scotland, The Dome is as grand as restaurants come, all pillars and huge chandeliers, and from the end of October until the New Year it is decked out in the most magnificent display of festive decorations. It even smells like Christmas.
The food is classic and well executed, the service is warm and friendly yet decidedly traditional. I’d go any time of year, but when the Christmas decorations are up it’s truly something special – reservations far in advance are a must, and if you can’t get one for dinner, at the very least go for a drink.
Cafe Marlayne
76 Thistle St, Edinburgh EH2 1EN
French bistro Cafe Marlayne serves great food at very reasonable prices, with an excellent set menu and gorgeous homemade desserts.
Monteiths
61 High St, Edinburgh EH1 1SR
Tucked off of the Royal Mile, down a little close covered with an arch made of fairy lights and branches sits Monteiths. Beyond inviting, the cosy bar is a great place to warm up with a cocktail or a glass of wine.
Judging by the bar snacks I’ve sampled here, having a full meal at Monteith’s restaurant would be a great shout. A lovely warm atmosphere where they were turning people away even in the afternoon – one to make a booking for.
Lovecrumbs
155 West Port, Edinburgh EH3 9DP
For a well earned pit stop of artisan coffee and homemade cake after walking your way around the city, quirky Lovecrumbs is a good spot to take a break in West Port, on the other side of the Castle.
The cafe is very relaxed with plenty of sharing tables, and partners with other local business such as Mary’s Milk Bar on some of their offering.
Urban Angel
121 Hanover St, Edinburgh EH2 1DJ
Independently owned, locally and sustainably sourced, Urban Angel does a banging brunch and caters well to gluten free, vegetarians and vegans alike. They’ve got everything from your classic Eggs Benedict, a long list of smoothies, delicious salads from the deli, sandwiches and cakes.
The Kings Wark
36 Shore, Edinburgh EH6 6QU
Should you find yourself shore side in Leith and in want of some good food, look no further than The Kings Wark. Built back in the 1400s, this beautiful old restaurant is well revered as one of the best gastro pubs around.
Serving up fantastic food with a focus on fresh seafood and locally sourced produce, it’s also super cosy and has a long list of Scottish gins to see you through.
Social Bite
131 Rose St, Edinburgh EH2 3DT
The ethos behind Social Bite is fantastic; all profit here goes towards solving social problems, with a particular focus on battling homelessness in Scotland. One in four of their staff have struggled with homelessness and my favourite part is you can pay for an extra drink or sandwich in store for someone who really needs it in a Pay It Forward system.
Fishers
Fishers Leith, 1 The Shore, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW
Fishers in the City, 58 Thistle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1EN
Fishers has long been a total winner if you’re after some excellent seafood in Edinburgh. Relaxed, friendly and serving beautiful fish in both Leith and the City, Fishers is sure to be busy, so ensure you book in advance to avoid disappointment.
EDINBURGH PUBS AND BARS
Pickles
56A Broughton St, Edinburgh EH1 3SA
Pickles is my number one spot in Edinburgh. A cosy basement wine bar serving cheese boards and chutneys amongst fairy lit surroundings, you have to get here close to opening time else you won’t nab a table – this place is very popular, and for good reason!
The staff are helpful and friendly, the prices reasonable, and there’s a charming little patio outside with a nook set out with blankets and strewn with fairy lights.
Devil’s Advocate
9 Advocate’s Cl, Edinburgh EH1 1ND
Tucked away down one of the historical little closes that run off of the Royal Mile, the appropriately named Devil’s Advocate on Advocate’s Close is situated in a Victorian pump house.
With big wooden doors that can be opened in the summer and a beautiful back lit bar full of bottles – including some 400-odd whiskies, this is a great spot for a pre or post dinner cocktail.
Bramble
16A Queen St, Edinburgh EH2 1JE
Tricky to find, Bramble is another great cocktail bar in Edinburgh; a tiny speakeasy type place with zero signage and a need for blind trust in Google Maps. Truly excellent cocktails.
Jolly Judge
7 James Court, 493 Lawnmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2PB
Small little pub tucked off of the Royal Mile, this is a great place to stop near the castle for a glass of wine.
Perfect in the winter due to the roaring open fire, the wine is good value and there’s a few cheap eats for lunch. There are plenty of beers on tap and a long list of whiskies to try. The perfect pit stop.
The Jazz Bar
1a Chambers St, Edinburgh EH1 1HR
The Jazz Bar is brilliant. Incredible live music, and don’t worry if jazz isn’t your bag as despite the name jazz isn’t the only genre of music you’ll find here; funk, soul, acoustic and blues all find their way onto the programme. Buy tickets in advance to avoid missing out on a great night.
THINGS TO DO IN EDINBURGH
Edinburgh Castle
Probably the most famous attraction in the Scottish capital, Edinburgh Castle sits on a hill at the top of the Royal Mile, overlooking the city and sea beyond. Dominating the skyline, it has sat on the aptly named Castle Rock (remind you of anywhere?) for hundreds of years and at times has had a pretty grim history.
There’s plenty to learn about during the self guided audio tour, from exploring the Chambers where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the future James I/VI of England and Scotland, down to the prisons that depict how prisoners were kept at the castle dating all the way back to the 1700s.
Scott Monument
A striking gothic structure dedicated to novelist Sir Walter Scott, the Scott Monument in the Princes Street Gardens is a tribute to Scottish history and one of the best known landmarks of the the city. For £8 you can climb to the top for stunning views of Edinburgh below.
Holyrood Palace
The Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh is smaller than you’d expect, but well worth a visit. A tour will take you through how the Palace is used today as well as its history, including taking you through the Chambers of Mary Queen of Scots and the location of her secretary David Rizzio’s brutal murder by the hand of her husband and his men. The ruined Abbey and gardens are also worth a look around if it’s not too freezing outside.
Edinburgh Gin Distillery
One of Scotland’s best loved gins have tours and tastings at their distillery in Edinburgh – be sure to book in advance as they get booked up pretty quick.
Real Mary King’s Close
Real Mary King’s Close is probably my favourite thing to do in Edinburgh. An hour’s tour will teach you all about the many closes that run off of the Royal Mile. These narrow laneways have a fascinating history and once had buildings either side rising up 15 or so stories, which is difficult to fathom!
Real Mary King’s Close takes you through the history of the closes, the Royal Mile and the people who used to live there – most in unimaginable conditions. Well worth a visit.
Arthur’s Seat
Epic views that overlook the whole of Edinburgh and the North Sea beyond. Made particularly famous by David Nicholls’ One Day, climbing up to Arthur’s Seat is a great summer in Edinburgh activity. Allow plenty of time, bring water and wear proper shoes to walk in.
Calton Hill
For those who don’t have the time or inclination to tackle Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill is far more manageable and still offers cracking views of the city. Calton Hill is home to a number of monuments including the famous Dugald Stewart Monument and the National Monument of Scotland.
WHERE TO STAY IN EDINBURGH
Market Street Hotel boasts a fantastic location just a few minutes walk from the Royal Mile and The Real Mary King’s Close. There is a distinct Scottish feel to the hotel, with local fabrics and local ingredients used in their excellent breakfast, which is served in the rooftop bar area. Accessible rooms available. Book here.
If you’re travelling to Edinburgh for a special occasion, look no further than Gleneagles Townhouse. With gorgeous interiors, exclusive access to their rooftop bar Lamplighters and a cracking breakfast to set you for the day, centrally located Gleneagles Townhouse offers a perfect taste of luxury. Book here.
Design-led apart hotel in a central location on George Street from the brilliant Locke Living team. Each stylish apartment has a kitchen and lounge area, and guests have reign of the co-working space and café downstairs. Book here.
Situated close to Calton Hill and most importantly, a few minutes walk from my favourite wine bar in Edinburgh: Pickles, The Broughton Townhouse is a lovely option to stay, especially for the solo traveller.
This small hotel offers stylish but homely single rooms, though a double won’t set you back much more, with prices from £75 per night. Book here.
GETTING TO AND AROUND EDINBURGH
Unfortunately for the environment, flying to Edinburgh is often significantly cheaper and of course takes a lot less time than the train does. If you use your Avios points, you can get a reward flight with BA for as little as 19,000 Avios and £1 or 10,000 Avios and £35 return. Hard to argue with that!
If you do get the train, Edinburgh Waverley is in the centre of the city, so it’s very easy to get from there to your accommodation.
From the airport you can take a tram into the city for £7, but better to get an open return for £9, which can be used within the same year.
Getting around Edinburgh is very easy on foot, but the tram system is easy to get to grips with and an unlimited ticket round the city for a day is only £4.50. You can buy tickets here.
FOUND THIS EDINBURGH TRAVEL GUIDE USEFUL? PIN FOR LATER!
Updated January 2025.
Want to receive travel inspiration, tips and recommendations straight to your inbox? Sign up below!
